A series of interviews in which Erika Katagiri, director of International Gallery BEAMS, talks with designers she's interested in at the moment. The second time is a fashion brand based in Romania. Les vacances d’Irina (Les Vacances de Irina)> Irina Morosanu. All of the clothing that values traditional manufacturing is generous and open. What kind of thoughts are put into this design that expresses herself? This time, the conversation between Lina and Katagiri was held remotely.
International Gallery BEAMS is the only store in Japan that has carried the Les vacances d’Irina brand since the 2020 SS season. When and how did the brand and BEAMS first meet?
Katagiri: Shortly after Irina started her brand, I happened to find her on SNS. There was a time when they were only making basket bags, but I became interested in Romania's emphasis on manufacturing. Her background is her unique identity. When I contacted her, I had the opportunity to visit Paris to make some purchases, and I have a strong memory of Irina bringing her collection to the hotel where I was staying according to my schedule.
Irina: At that time, I was running a small vintage shop in Romania, and I was only producing pieces as part of my original works. So I was surprised when I suddenly received a call from a buyer from far away Japan! Why at first? (laughs) I also remember the day we met in Paris. Now that I think about it, it was a very unique encounter.
Katagiri: The collection Irina showed me in the hotel room was all white. There are linen sailor collar shirts, dresses, fisherman knits, and T-shirts with typography printed on them. I want to bring out a new side of Irina while making the most of the pure beauty of the material, so could I make it in black and navy? That's how it all started.
Irina: The proposal was new and exciting to me. Romania has many traditional fabrics, many of which are white. In other words, I don't really have the idea of dyeing. So for us it was a big challenge. It took a lot of trial and error at first, but I think it turned out to be a great initiative to grow the brand. BEAMS is like a school to me. He taught me a lot, not only about design, but also supported me even though I had no experience in the fashion business. I have nothing but gratitude.
Katagiri：We have many hours of remote meetings with Irina, and we are always communicating with her. Of course, we give her our requests, but the most important premise is the "Les vacances d’Irina" style. I believe that Irina's unique style, with its bohemian atmosphere, is what is important. To achieve this, we always try to maintain close communication with each other.
It started out as a commission as Special order, and from the 2022 SS season, a collaborative line, < Les vacances d’Irina for Alb (Les Vacances de Irina for Alb)
Katagiri: Albu is the Romanian word for "white". The name comes from the all-white first collection that was shown to me at a hotel, meaning ``Let's start from a pure white place.''
Irina: I create items that match the collections of < Les vacances d’Irina >. You incorporate unique ideas each time, such as using deadstock fabrics and Romanian embroidery.
Katagiri: We sometimes choose high-quality local linen that has been passed down in Romania since ancient times. In addition to the materials, you incorporate traditional Romanian elements into your clothing, such as embroidery similar to that used on "Boranjik" silk and atelier-made sewing.
Irina: “Boranjik” is a special fabric with a history of hundreds of years. It is traditional to make a shirt using this fabric for each bride, and each person embroiders it by hand using silver or gold silk thread. Nowadays, embroidery is sold in various markets, but not all embroidery on the market is perfect. But such original embroidery is charming and cute, and I love it! I incorporate it into my collection and use it as a hint for my designs. It may look like ordinary embroidery to people outside of Romania, but I want to incorporate this tradition into my collection and preserve it.
So, which item is your favorite in this 2023 SS season?
Irina: It's a tiered skirt. Up until now, I have created collections based on white, black, and navy, but this time I tried bright colors for the first time, including vivid pink. What's interesting about working with International Gallery BEAMS is that we create products that transcend national borders. I think we were able to create a pink skirt that is not normally made because Japanese women have a different expression and atmosphere when they wear it. Japan gives me new inspiration, and ``International Gallery BEAMS'' is a very stimulating place.
Katagiri：This time, I met Irina in Milan for the first time in many years, and we had a face-to-face meeting to discuss the production. What she wanted to express was Italy's vivid color schemes and relaxed atmosphere. So when I suggested a voluminous skirt in pink, I was surprised and felt fresh. I hope you will feel the new "Les vacances d’Irina" that has never been seen before.
Irina: Although it is a new design, by using a waist strap modeled after a traditional Romanian skirt, we have made it possible for anyone to enjoy sizing freely.
Katagiri：When making clothes with Irina, we really pay attention to details. From the length to the silhouette, down to a single detail such as buttons. I especially try to pursue sizing. The reason for this is that < Les vacances d’Irina > is all one size fits all. We take our time and make no compromises in order to create a piece that will suit any person of any height, weight, or fashion style.
Irina, what do you usually keep in mind when designing?
Irina: I try to make clothes that let my imagination run wild. For example, let's say you have a long flared dress. People who see it dream of being on vacation on a beach by the sea. Isn't it wonderful to use fashion to create an image that instantly makes you feel like you're enjoying a trip? I design with this feeling in mind: I want to create something that goes beyond cloth.
Katagiri：Irina loves vacations, traveling all over the world and using the scenery and experiences she gains there as inspiration. I think her open-minded mood, combined with Romanian traditional craftsmanship and modern urban elements, creates a unique fashion style. I am happy to say that many of the customers who visit the "International Gallery BEAMS" are also attracted to the charm of < Les vacances d’Irina >.
Irina: Since "International Gallery BEAMS" started handling our products, the number of Japanese people sending us messages and following us through Instagram DM has increased. I haven't been to Japan even once, so this year I would like to have the opportunity to visit the stores and communicate directly with them.
The visual image posted on Instagram, in which Irina herself is the model, is also very impressive.
Katagiri: From the first time I met Irina, I felt that she was an attractive person with good taste. Even though he wears simple clothes, he has an atmosphere that attracts people's attention. This is also reflected in her self-direction.
Irina: At first, the brand was small, so I had no choice but to become a model. As the seasons went by, I sometimes wondered if I should ask someone else to do it, but after thinking about it, I realized that I understand the brand better than anyone else. I still take photos myself because it's important to be able to convey images to customers in the best way possible. I often get asked about styling, but I often rush and think about it the day before (lol)? My style is to enjoy imperfection.
Finally, what kind of future does < Les vacances d’Irina > have in mind?
Irina: Rather than developing the brand significantly, I would like to work with someone who understands the direction that me and my team want to take. I don't want to sell a lot of clothes. I have a greater desire to spread the word about the culture and traditional Romanian manufacturing that I cherish all over the world. So I'm going to be patient and have fun working on the design. On top of that, I definitely want to continue working with BEAMS. I truly trust Erika and the rest of the ``International Gallery BEAMS'' team, and my collaborations with them are always natural and go with the flow. He's someone I can be that open with.
Katagiri: We are glad to hear you say so. We, too, see potential in Irina's honest and attractive brand. The 〈Les vacances d’Irina for Alb〉 collection is a step in that direction. We hope to continue making clothes together, taking on new challenges like the pink skirt.
Les vacances d’Irina
Based in Bucharest, Romania, the brand Les vacances d’Irina (Les Vacances Dailina) was launched in 2017. She sells her own collection of made-to-order items in her atelier, along with vintage ethnic clothing and baskets. Her collections are made of natural materials carefully woven with traditional methods in her own country, and are sewn at a small local mill.
Erika Katagiri
International Gallery BEAMS Director / Buyer
Became a buyer in 2018 after gaining shop experience at "BEAMS RECORDS" and "International Gallery BEAMS." Currently, she is the women's director of International Gallery BEAMS, where she introduces up-and-coming brands from Japan and abroad. On his days off, he enjoys walking around town with his film camera.
Event period: May 11th (Thursday) - May 21st (Sunday)
Holding store: International Gallery BEAMS Women's
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