A series of interviews in which Erika Katagiri, director of International Gallery BEAMS, talks with fashion designers who are interested in her at the moment. The third article is about Lindsey Smith of the knit brand Edna, which will be newly available from the 2023 fall/winter season. Her style of weaving colorful mohair threads, which are carefully hand-dyed one by one, with a free imagination, as if she were creating a painting using paint, is unique. We asked them about their creative ideas and feelings about this collaboration. This is her first interview.
First of all, when and how did BEAMS and Edna meet?
Katagiri: I've been curious about Edna's Instagram since they started their brand. Knits that are creative and familiar. Even though it's a brand from a faraway country, it somehow felt very familiar to me. A few years later, I became even more interested when I learned that Edna had collaborated with Renaissance Renaissance, a brand carried by International Gallery BEAMS. That's when I got a message from Lindsay via Instagram.
Lindsey: I've always liked BEAMS, and I've always been a big fan of the designers from the brand that Mr. Katagiri selects. < International Gallery BEAMS > is a very nice shop and I wanted to be a part of it, but I never expected it to actually come true! <Edna> is a new brand, so I didn't know what possibilities it had. However, I was really happy to meet Mr. Katagiri and all the other staff members, who were very warm and charming.
Katagiri: The first place we met was at Lindsey's atelier.
Lindsey: Yes! It's been about two weeks since I moved in again, and I don't have any furniture. I also have fond memories of borrowing a chair from my neighbor (lol). A friend of mine helped me out as a fitting model, and we all talked about fashion together. That was a wonderful moment.
<Edna> is impressive with its original design based on free ideas. Where does inspiration come from?
Lindsey: I often get ideas from my friends. I'm influenced by what they wear and their personalities. I feel more inspired to create when I see my friends wearing the clothes than when I see them on hangers. The way I make clothes is personal.
It all started as a graduation project for school. I had never really knitted anything before, so I learned how to knit from scratch, and first I made a balaclava. And a sweater too. Rather than taking the plunge and starting a brand on a grand scale, it felt like a small project that grew little by little. My father was the model for the first look photo. nostalgic. Now that I've moved to Paris, my environment has changed, but I have a lot of great friends around me who are my source of inspiration.
Katagiri: What is the origin of the brand name "Edna"?
Lindsey: Named after my grandmother. I found a big mohair cardigan in her closet and fell in love with it and have been wearing it ever since. I wanted to make a knit that paid homage to this one, so I tried making clothes for the first time. That's this red cardigan. I think I made 12 pieces, but they were machine made. After that, I decided to learn how to knit by myself and went to work on my graduation project.
Speaking of <Edna>'s knits, it is characteristic that they are hand-dyed using natural dyes such as vegetables. Specifically, what kind of materials are you using to dye your clothes now?
Lindsey: Cabbage, carrots, spinach, beets... The things I often use are turmeric and coffee. I tried it with all kinds of vegetables. The ingredients are placed in a pot and boiled until the desired color is achieved. Some colors, such as neon colors, use synthetic dyes. By combining these two dyes, unexpected color schemes are created.
Katagiri: I've always been curious, but how do you decide on the color scheme for Edna's knits?
Lindsey: There are no particular rules, so I try to combine things intuitively. Also, sometimes images come to mind from the patterns of stones I picked up on the riverbank. I only value intuition.
Katagiri: For this collaboration between International Gallery BEAMS and Edna, you took an unusual approach to the colors and patterns.
Lindsey: It was very exciting! But communication was a little difficult at first. I asked Mr. Katagiri to make a list of the colors he imagined, but it was difficult to match his senses from there. At that time, Mr. Katagiri sent me a photo of a certain painting. Visual inspiration is so important, there's no need for words. I was able to understand the image of Edna that she was looking for.
Katagiri: After communicating through paintings, we sent each other paintings that we thought were good and searched for color inspiration. We discussed and decided on a variety of color schemes, from earth tones to pale feminine hues. Images of Georgia O'Keeffe's works came to mind. The slightly ephemeral atmosphere and pale color scheme are perfect! I discussed it with Lindsey and decided.
So, how do you choose the materials used in knitwear?
Lindsey: Basically, I use mohair. It's a material we've been using ever since we started the brand because it gives a great look when dyed. But from now on, I want to try new materials! For example, washi paper, which is familiar in Japan. I'm very curious about what color it will turn out when I dye it. The rest is tulle. This is the first material I tried using in this collaboration.
Katagiri: We proposed the idea of using tulle. What would happen if Lindsay used the tulle leftover from the clothing making process of her previous collaboration, Renaissance Renaissance? I was curious. This was Lindsay's first attempt, so she took on the challenge with great enthusiasm. As a result, this cardigan was born.
Lindsey: The collaboration item with International Gallery BEAMS is the first cardigan I've made since starting the brand. The knitwear my grandmother wore was also a cardigan, so I feel a sense of familiarity with it.
Katagiri: Cardigans are a popular item among Japanese people, who frequently change their clothes to suit the temperature difference, but they're not as popular overseas. However, since it's a keepsake of Lindsey, I feel like it'll go well. It's a design that can be worn every day and can be used for everyday use, and I think it's a piece that fans of International Gallery BEAMS will be happy with.
Lindsey: You can also wear this cardigan with the front and back reversed. This will change the pattern and give it a slightly fresh look. I wanted to create something that could be mixed and mix and match, including playful styling. So, I would be happy if you could enjoy this knit with free ideas.
BEAMS and <Edna>. Collaboration items created through close communication will be unveiled at the POP-UP shop, which will be held from September 14th (Thursday) to September 24th (Sunday).
Katagiri: In addition to Special order made cardigans, we will be selling a total of six types, including pullover sweaters, vests, and snoods. Each piece is unique, with different color combinations and patterns. The lineup will only be available in stores, so we hope you can actually get your hands on it and experience the world of Edna.
Lindsey: For the boat neck sweater, Mr. Katagiri and the staff deliberately styled it by raising the collar to bring out a new look, which was refreshing. It's cute even if you put it together like a snood. I used tulle for the collar to make it feel nice and comfortable against the skin. As I mentioned earlier, the design allows the wearer to freely arrange it, such as by wearing it with the front and back reversed. The vest is basically one color, but it expresses a gradation that blends in naturally. Each snood has a unique design. No two patterns or colors are the same.
This knit incorporates romantic and feminine elements. I also took on new challenges, such as using tulle and using a pale color scheme. It was an exciting and very fun experiment. I hope this connection connects and we can create something interesting next season. For example, I've been sketching a knitted blouse with a strong tailored feel. I think it was a fascinating collaboration full of inspiration.
Edna
A knit brand founded in 2019 by designer Lindsey Smith. Based in Paris, they sell one-of-a-kind knitwear in unisex fashion. Mohair is hand-dyed using natural dyes, giving it a vivid and gentle color that is unique and unique.
Instagram: @eeeeednaaa
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